Exfoliation is an often neglected, or over done step in people’s skincare program – getting it right is extremely important to ensure that you achieve glowing smooth healthy skin. Whether you’re a low-key skincare person or a high care skincare lover, understanding why it’s important to exfoliate and how to do it effectively can elevate your skin health.

Exfoliating the skin helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and promote cell turnover, leading to smoother, more radiant skin.

Exfoliating with the correct products is all important when it comes to achieving glowing healthy skin – when you exfoliate with the incorrect products you can cause long term damage which will start to show up dramatically as you age.

I am hopefully going to help you to understand the best products for you to help you achieve the skin you desire without any of the down sides.  

First of all, we need to discuss why exfoliation is important.

Our skin naturally sheds dead skin cells as part of its regeneration process, but as we age, this process slows down and once we pass through menopause it becomes inefficient. Without proper exfoliation, dead cells can accumulate on the skin’s surface, leading to dullness, uneven texture, clogged pores, and even breakouts. Regular exfoliation can:

• Improve Skin Texture: By removing dead skin cells revealing a smoother and more even surface.
• Brighten Complexion: Exfoliating helps skin look brighter by sloughing off dull, dry patches which often look like pigmentation – or become pigmentation.
• Prevent Breakouts: By clearing clogged pores, exfoliation can help reduce acne and blackheads.
• Enhance Product Absorption: Exfoliating preps your skin to better absorb serums, moisturizers, and other treatments.
• Stimulate Collagen Production: Some types of exfoliants promote collagen synthesis, contributing to firmer, younger-looking skin.

Different Methods of Exfoliation

1. Physical/Manual Exfoliation involves using grainy textures or tools to manually scrub away dead skin cells. Common methods include:
• Scrubs: These contain small granules – the good ones contain things such as perfectly round coconut shells and round bamboo balls. The more common and harsher versions use ingredients such as sugar, salt, or crushed walnut or apricot seeds.
• Exfoliating Brushes or Sponges: Devices like facial brushes, or facial exfoliating sponges, or stones.
• Microdermabrasion: A professional or at-home treatment that uses a device to exfoliate and suction dead cells. This is ideal for sun-damaged and thickened skin – but unfortunately it is often used on finer skins which is not ideal.

Pros:

• Instant results: Skin feels smoother immediately after use.
• Easy to incorporate into your routine – can often be done in the shower.
• Can be used on the face and body.

Cons:

• Over-exfoliation risk: Many scrubs are harsh – ingredients such as walnut shells, apricot kernels, salt or sugar, stones or sponges cause irritation, micro-tears, or inflammation.
• Many are not suitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin: Can exacerbate issues like redness or breakouts – can spread bacteria.
• Temporary effects: needs to be repeated 2-3 x per week to maintain results.

1. Chemical Exfoliation Chemical exfoliants use active ingredients like acids or enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells without manual scrubbing. Popular types are:
• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): These are water-soluble acids like glycolic, malic, citric. mandelic and lactic acid that target deep into the surface of the skin. They work by loosening up the glue between the dead skin cells so the skin can shed them.

Lactic acid is the only one that increases the skin’s hydration whilst exfoliating – so unlike it’s fellow AHAs  it doesn’t cause skin irritation.

• Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): Oil-soluble acids like salicylic acid that penetrate deep into pores although the molecules are larger so that it doesn’t penetrate deep into the skin cells.
• Enzymes: Derived from fruits like papaya or pineapple, enzymes work similarly to acids but instead of breaking down the glue between the cells to loosen them up – they eat away the dead skin cells – and are often chosen as they are gentler and more manageable.

Pros:

• Gentler than physical exfoliation for sensitive skin.
• AHAs help fade hyperpigmentation, lactic acid improves hydration.
• BHAs are great for acne-prone skin as they go deep into pores to clear sebum.
• Encourages long-term benefits like improved skin texture and reduced signs of aging.

Cons:

• Can cause sensitivity or irritation, especially when used incorrectly, in high concentrations or added to cleansers, toners or daily serums.
• Chemical exfoliants increase skin sensitivity to the sun.
• Takes time to see visible results compared to physical exfoliation.

1. Exfoliating Peels These treatments involve applying a concentrated formula of acids to the skin for a short period, then rinsing off to reveal fresh skin. They can be done at home or by a professional in higher concentrations.

Pros:

• Powerful and effective at targeting deep skin concerns like hyperpigmentation, fine lines, or scarring.
• Produces long-lasting results with consistent use.
• Smooths skin texture and brightens complexion.

Cons:

• Risk of irritation or burns if not used correctly.
• Downtime required: Skin may peel or become more sensitive after treatment.
• Not suitable for very sensitive skin or beginners.

1. Exfoliating Masks These are typically leave-on products that combine exfoliating acids or enzymes with hydrating and soothing ingredients. They gently exfoliate over a longer period compared to peels or scrubs.

Pros:

• Suitable for sensitive skin due to the gentle nature of slow exfoliation.
• Combines multiple skincare benefits (hydration, exfoliation, brightening) in one step.
• Can be done weekly for maintenance.

Cons:

• Results may be less dramatic than peels or scrubs.
• Can take time to see improvements, requiring consistent use.
• And they sometimes contain chemical based ingredients to keep the mask stable which enter the blood stream.

How do I choose the correct exfoliation method for my skin type?

• Sensitive Skin: Opt for gentler methods like enzyme-based exfoliants, low-concentration lactic acid or gentle scrubs such as the Everything Skin Scrub. Avoid harsh physical scrubs and strong chemical peels.
• Oily/Acne-Prone Skin: BHAs are your best friend, as they help unclog pores and reduce oil production. Only use 2 x weekly – daily use will disrupt the acid mantle and kill off the microbiome – opening you up to more acne breakouts.
• Dry/Dehydrated Skin: Lactic acid and regular scrubs such as the Everything Skin Scrub will slough away dry patches while maintaining moisture levels.
• Combination Skin: You are best keeping things simple – use a scrub such as the Everything Skin Scrub 2 x weekly and use Lactic acid 1 x weekly as it will hydrate the skin stopping your T Zone from becoming oily.

Final thoughts

One product I have not discussed – and it has become the go to choice of beauty obsessives is Retinol.

Retinol is a form of Vitamin A; it is a powerful exfoliant that works by accelerating cell turnover and promoting the shedding of dead skin cells. revealing smoother, more youthful skin underneath. Unlike traditional exfoliants that manually or chemically slough off dead cells, retinol stimulates deeper layers of the skin to renew themselves, it helps to reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and acne by keeping pores clear.

However, it is being used by people who are too young to use this – and the downside of this is that in the long run it causes premature ageing. Because of its potency, it often causes irritation, dryness, and sun sensitivity.

I personally love a glowing skin so products such as retinol and glycolic are not part of my skincare routine as both of them penetrate too deep into the skin causing dehydration, sensitivity – and also increase my chances of more pigmentation (of which I have enough of as is). Both stop the skin from looking plump and youthful. They both also both disrupt the skin’s acid mantle and microbiome.

I am a fan of Lactic Acid and manual exfoliation – the gentle approach to glowing skin followed by a generous dollop of Everything Skin Cream mixed with Everything Skin Oil – I like to use the opportunity to give the fresh new cells a good dose of skin food and hydration – to help them come to the surface of the skin glowing and plump.

Just remember when exfoliating—moderation is key! Over-exfoliating can do more harm than good, just because the beauty consultants and influencers are recommending daily exfoliation – doesn’t mean it is the way to go – so always listen to your skin’s needs. If your skin isn’t looking plump and hydrated – your exfoliation choice is not improving the state of your skin.

If you need more help choosing the correct steps to help you achieve glowing skin – book a glowing skin and wellness consultation via zoom with me!

Or subscribe in the link below to receive weekly beauty and health information and tips!

Yvette xx

Thank you for reading my blog!

Hi! 

I am Yvette van Schie, I am a holistic beauty therapist, skin nutritionist, skincare developer and makeup artist. I am passionate about sharing real beauty advice with a whack of reality.

For over 30 years I have worked with the best in the beauty and health industry as a trainer, educator  and product formulator and I still do – so my knowledge is diverse – I am not blinkered when sharing my information with you because everyone I speak to shares what they know, and I turn it into easy to digest information because I want my readers to feel empowered to make their own decisions and to feel that they are fully in control of their beauty and well being.